Šumava: Devil's and Black Lakes

As you might already know from my Instagram, we spent the first day of summer – Saturday, June 21, 2025 – once again in the heart of Šumava. This time, we headed to the iconic Šumava lakes: Devil's Lake (Čertovo jezero) and Black Lake (Černé jezero). Although we visited other beautiful places during the day, I’ll write about those next time.

We walked the entire route as a loop – starting and ending in Železná Ruda. The path led not only through the Czech side but partly through Germany as well. In the end, we clocked an impressive 41.41 kilometers. This really isn't a trip for everyone, but if you believe in yourself, are well-trained, and love challenges, then this could be a great tip for you too.

So sit back comfortably, perhaps with a cup of coffee, and come read about everything this route had to offer.

Železná Ruda + Parking

Our starting and ending destination was Železná Ruda – a well-known mountain town located right on the border with Germany. Thanks to its location at an altitude of around 750 m.a.s.l. and excellent accessibility, it is an ideal starting point for hikes, cycling trips, and winter sports. In summer, nature lovers and hikers flock here, while in winter, it's skiers – you'll find several ski resorts nearby, including the famous Špičák.

A Bit of History

Železná Ruda was established back in the 16th century as a mining settlement focused on iron ore mining – hence its name (Iron Ore). Over time, the importance of mining declined, and the region began to focus on glassmaking, which has a rich tradition here. To this day, you can visit a museum documenting glassmaking and glass production in the region.

What to visit directly in Železná Ruda?

• Baroque Church of Our Lady Help of Christians from the Star – a unique church with a non-traditional six-pointed star floor plan. It is the symbol of the town and definitely worth a visit.


• Šumava Museum – you can find it right in the center; besides Šumava nature, it also showcases the history of local life, mining, and glassmaking.

• Glass Museum in Lenora – located further southeast (approx. 70 km), but for lovers of the glassmaking craft, it's a must within the Šumava region.

• Tourist Information Center – you can pick up maps, find current tips, or get advice from locals.

Parking

We parked directly at the Sundial, below the train stop, near the church. It's a strategic and convenient spot – paid, but reasonably priced. Parking costs at least 25 CZK, with all-day parking at 100 CZK. The location has excellent accessibility to the city center and hiking trails. Plus, it's quieter than the main parking lot at the station, so if you arrive early in the morning, you'll likely park without stress. (License plate number required.)

Devil's and Black Lakes

First, I will describe the route to Black Lake, which leads past Devil's Lake. If you don't want to do a longer loop like we did, you can comfortably return the same way to Železná Ruda, or vary your trip with a detour to the Špičák lookout tower.

If you plan to visit the Špičák lookout tower (↗ link to Reel on my Instagram), I recommend visiting it before Black Lake – ideally, go to Devil's Lake first, then climb up to the Špičák tower, and then continue to Black Lake.

The Špičák lookout tower is open during the summer season from Monday to Friday between 9:00 and 17:00, and until 18:00 on weekends. A maximum of 60 visitors can climb up at once. The tower measures 26.5 meters and there are 135 steps to the top. In good visibility, you can see not only Šumava but also the distant Dachstein Alps.

• Admission is 90 CZK for adults and 60 CZK for children and youth.

Devil's Lake (↗ Photos on Instagram,↗ Reel on Instagram)

A glacial tarn steeped in legends, located high on the southeastern slope of Jezerní hora (altitude 1,030 m.a.s.l.). It has an area of approximately 10.3 ha and a depth of up to 36.7 m. Water flows both in and out (Jezerní stream leads to the Danube), making it the only glacial lake in Šumava belonging to the Black Sea watershed.

Folklore and Legend

The lake is surrounded by a mysterious aura – according to legend, it was "dug out" by the devil himself, whom a girl tied a rock to his tail to save her soul. Sometimes, "goblins" and "strange figures" are said to appear on the surface.

Nature and Access

It lies within a protected reserve, accessible to tourists only via marked trails, most often along the Glassmaking Nature Trail from Špičácké sedlo. The surroundings have retained a wild character, with rich vegetation and rare flora and fauna, including primeval spruces and areas where the Eurasian lynx can be found.

Black Lake (↗ Photos on Instagram,↗ Reel on Instagram)

The largest and deepest natural lake in the Czech Republic, of glacial origin (18.4 - 18.9 ha, depth around 40 m, altitude ~ 1,008 m). It lies below the imposing wall of Jezerní hora, which rises up to 330 m above the surface in places.

Color and Name Origin

The surface appears dark to black due to a layer of conifer pollen settling on the bottom (up to 9 m thick), the dense surrounding forest, and low light levels – hence the name Black Lake.

Nature and Technical Interest

The area is protected, home to rare plant species (e.g., lake quillwort) and animals – capercaillie, three-toed woodpecker, lynx, and others. Near the lake dam stands a historically significant pumped-storage power plant from 1929 (the first in Czechoslovakia) – a technical monument that utilizes Black Lake as its upper reservoir.

Waterfall

Nearby, on the way to the lake, there is also a smaller waterfall about 14 m high, which is worth a short detour. (soon on my Instagram as well)

❗❗ Notice: Swimming in Devil's and Black Lakes is strictly prohibited! Both lakes are located in a National Nature Reserve, and interfering with the lake water – including swimming, washing, or collecting – is prohibited under fine. Protecting these rare glacial lakes is crucial for preserving the unique nature and water purity. ❗❗

Review

I rate these places very positively and they are definitely worth a visit. Both Devil's and Black Lakes are among the most beautiful natural locations in Šumava and offer not only amazing views but also a piece of history and Šumava wilderness.

If you set out from Devil's Lake towards Black Lake, a beautiful descent awaits you on a maintained path that will be tough on your knees. And if you go in the opposite direction, from Black Lake up to Devil's Lake, prepare yourself for a serious climb. We met many tourists who were already halfway and almost red in the face. 😂

That's also why we chose the return route via the German side, which was longer but significantly gentler and more pleasant. And since our destination point was the peak of Osser in Bavaria (where there is also a cozy mountain inn), I will write about that in the next article.

Anyway - I really recommend Devil's and Black Lakes. It's a place one loves to return to.

Add-on

I'm also including a photo of that hill you'll have to conquer during the ascent to Devil's Lake. It might not look that dramatic in the photo, but believe me – speaking from experience, it would be a real challenge if we hadn't taken the shortcut through the German route.

Those who follow me on Instagram have surely already seen it in my stories – or you can find it later saved in the "Trails" highlights, where I also show off the Apple Watch badges I collected on this route.

And one more thing – our entire detailed long route (41.41 km) will be published in the last article of this series. You understand, I don't want to reveal everything I have planned for you right away. You have something to look forward to.

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All photos and videos on these pages and my Instagram profile are my own work. I am the sole author. If you are interested in using them, please contact me via private message on Instagram. All content is captured with an iPhone 16 Pro.
Captured on June 21, 2025.