Today I would like to follow up on my previous article titled
Šumava: Devil's and Black Lakes, because that specific trip can be beautifully extended and combined with another destination – ascending the summit of Mt. Osser (Ostrý). From Železná Ruda, you can plan a wonderful hiking route that leads you past Devil's and Black Lakes all the way to the peak of Osser. It is located right on the border, with its highest point lying on the German side – specifically in Bavaria (Bayern), in the district of Cham. Yes, as you’ve guessed, we are heading into Germany – but don't worry, it's definitely worth it!
If you haven't read the first part about the lakes yet, I recommend starting there – it provides a beautiful introduction to this amazing Šumava adventure. And now, feel free to grab a coffee or your favorite tea, settle in comfortably – and let's get to it.
The Start of the Hiking Route + Parking
I recommend starting this beautiful hike to Osser from Železná Ruda, which is an excellent starting point for both lakes and the summit itself. The ideal start is directly from the parking lot at the railway station Železná Ruda - Město, from where you can comfortably set off along the marked hiking trail. If you arrive by car, the parking lot is paid, but well accessible and frequently used by tourists. During the peak season, I recommend arriving rather in the morning, as the parking capacity fills up quickly.
From the parking lot, the red trail markers will lead you toward Devil's Lake, from where you will continue to Black Lake and then join the blue trail toward Osser. The route is moderately demanding, with beautiful views and opportunities for rest along the way. The ascent to Osser itself then offers truly magnificent views – of both the Czech and German sides of Šumava and the Bavarian Forest.
Attention: Due to the more demanding climb, sections with rocks, and natural paths, the route is not suitable for strollers or wheelchair users. This trip is intended only for hikers with sturdy footwear and good physical fitness.
More details regarding parking and information about Železná Ruda can be found in the original article about Devil's and Black Lakes.
On the map above, you can see the complete route from Železná Ruda to the summit of Osser. The total length of the route is approximately 16 km one way, so if you plan a round trip, count on an impressive 32 km in total. As I mentioned, this really isn't a short walk on level ground – it's a challenge for fit hikers in good condition.
I would especially like to point out the climb between Black and Devil's Lakes, which is truly intense. It can test even experienced hikers – exactly as I described in my previous article about the lakes. So definitely pack enough water, energy, and the will to push yourself.
Refreshments
Once you reach the summit of Mt. Osser, you will come across a cozy guesthouse called Willmann Haus. It is a German establishment, so they do not accept Czech koruna, only Euros, and unfortunately, cards are not accepted – so bring cash in Euros with you.
Prices are quite reasonable by German standards: alcoholic and non-alcoholic beer can be purchased for under 5 Euros per half-liter, other drinks are also affordable, and food ranges roughly between 8 and 10 Euros. I don't think it's wallet-ruining by any means.
We tried the great Osser radler with elderberry flavor – a bit sweet, but in that heat and after a demanding hike, truly refreshing. Plus, you can sit outside with beautiful views of the surrounding scenery. The toilets are clean and free.
If you want to extend the hike a bit and experience Šumava and the Bavarian Forest from a different perspective, head
from the summit of Osser along the German side through the Bavarian Forest to the first large parking lot by the road. There, a beautiful view awaits you from an interesting structure located directly above the road.
During the walk, you will almost constantly have Great Arber (Großer Arber) in sight, which we will talk about later – its summit houses NATO radars.
The route then leads to Bayerisch Eisenstein, through Alžbětín, and finally back to Železná Ruda. The total length of this variant is approximately 38.1 km – it's not short, but unlike the Czech route, you won't have to conquer the steep climb from Black Lake to Devil's Lake.
Along the way, you'll also find a pleasant restaurant and guesthouse run by a Czech family –
↗ Pension Arberwald | Woodpecker. They have very kind staff and a truly pleasant atmosphere.
Fun Fact
Did you know that thanks to their characteristic silhouette when viewed from the Czech slopes of Šumava and Chodsko, the peaks Osser and Kleiner Osser earned the nickname „Breasts of the Mother of God“? This poetic nickname was first mentioned by the Domažlice dean Karel Hájek as early as 1872.
Review
This trip with a proper hiking ascent was definitely worth it. My back hurt a little toward the end, but I survived and didn't forget to share Reels and photos on Instagram. And now I’m writing this article to recommend it to you.
I truly recommend this route, and if you want, try the longer variant via the German side – that way you won't have to climb from Black Lake to Devil's Lake, which is really demanding.
When you decide to go, be sure to document the route, take photos, and let me know on Instagram – ideally tag me with the hashtag #cestujsbobisem. I’ll be happy if my experiences can motivate you for a trip.
Overall, it was a great hiking route that was worth every drop of sweat.
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Captured on June 21, 2025.
